From Hide to Luxury – How is leather made?

Leather — it’s the embodiment of timeless elegance, rugged durability, and craftsmanship. But how does this remarkable material come to life? How does the skin of an animal become a wearable fabric? And how does the leather manufacturing industry impact our planet?

The Birth of Leather

Leather has been used by humans for thousands of years and has been a staple in various cultures and industries, from fashion to furniture, with uses in a myriad of applications due to its versatility and strength. However, the process of transforming animal hides into leather is complex and involves several stages, each with its own set of environmental and ethical considerations.

The history of leather dates back to ancient times, with evidence of its use found in prehistoric cave paintings and artifacts. Early humans discovered that animal hides could be transformed into a durable material by treating them with various substances, such as plant extracts and animal fats. This process, known as tanning, was refined over time, leading to the development of different tanning methods and techniques.

Tanning – The Alchemical Transformation

Tanning is where the real metamorphosis occurs, transforming raw animal hides into a durable and pliable material. Imagine ancient alchemists working their magic! Here’s how it unfolds:

1. Soaking: The hides are soaked to prepare them for tanning.
2. Hair Removal: Say goodbye to the hair—the hides are meticulously cleaned.
3. Liming and Deliming: These steps loosen fibers and remove impurities.
4. Bating and Bleaching: Further cleaning and whitening take place.
5. Pickling: Acidification prepares the hides for tanning.

There are several methods of tanning, each with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. The most common tanning methods include vegetable tanning, chrome tanning, and synthetic tanning.

Vegetable tanning is one of the oldest and most traditional methods of tanning. It involves treating animal hides with tannins, which are naturally occurring compounds found in plants. This process is time-consuming and labor-intensive, but it produces a high-quality leather that is durable and has a natural appearance.

Chrome tanning, on the other hand, is a more modern and efficient method of tanning. It involves treating animal hides with chromium salts, which produce a soft and supple leather that is suitable for a wide range of applications. However, chrome tanning is also more environmentally harmful, as it produces toxic byproducts that can pollute waterways and harm aquatic life.

Synthetic tanning is a newer method of tanning that involves treating animal hides with synthetic chemicals. This process is faster and more efficient than traditional tanning methods, but it produces a lower-quality leather that is less durable and has a less natural appearance.

Retanning: Prefinishing

Retanning adds depth and character to the leather. It involves thinning, lubricating, and often coloring. Additional steps like splitting, dyeing, and finishing complete this phase.

Milling: The Softening Dance

Ever wondered why leather feels so supple? Milling is the secret. The hides undergo mechanical action—rolling, tumbling, and kneading—to soften and enhance their texture.

Finishing: The Grand Finale

Surface coatings, oiling, brushing, and other treatments elevate the leather’s appearance and properties. This final flourish transforms raw material into luxury products we adore.

The Environmental Impact of Leather Production

The environmental impact of leather production is staggering. According to the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO), the leather industry is responsible for 18% of global greenhouse gas emissions, making it one of the leading contributors to climate change. Additionally, the production of leather requires large amounts of water and energy, further exacerbating its environmental impact.

In recent years, there has been a growing awareness of the environmental and ethical issues associated with leather production. As a result, many consumers are seeking out alternatives to traditional leather, such as vegan leather and plant-based leather.

Another significant environmental concern associated with leather production is deforestation. The demand for leather has led to the destruction of forests in many parts of the world, as land is cleared to make way for cattle ranching. This deforestation not only contributes to climate change but also destroys vital habitats for wildlife.

Then there’s water pollution. The tanning process requires large amounts of water, which is often contaminated with toxic chemicals such as chromium and formaldehyde. According to PETA, over 90% of the world’s leather is chrome-tanned, and all waste containing chromium is hazardous. This polluted water is then released into waterways, where it can harm aquatic life and contaminate drinking water sources.

The Ethical Considerations of Leather Production

In addition to its environmental impact, leather production also raises ethical concerns. The use of animal hides in leather production raises questions about animal welfare and the treatment of animals. Many animal rights activists argue that the use of animal hides in leather production is cruel and unnecessary, as there are alternative materials that can be used to create similar products.

Another concern associated with leather production is the treatment of workers in the industry. Many leather tanneries are located in developing countries, where labor laws are often lax and workers are subjected to poor working conditions and low wages. This exploitation of workers is a significant ethical concern and has led to calls for greater transparency and accountability in the leather industry.

Better Choices

Leather is derived from the skin of animals, primarily cows, pigs, goats, and sheep and the tanning process is particularly harmful to the environment. Options like vegan leather mimic the look and feel of real leather but are typically made from polyurethane or polyvinyl chloride (PVC), which are both derived from petroleum. Vegan leather is more environmentally friendly than real leather, as it does not involve the use of animal skins or the toxic chemicals used in the tanning process. However, vegan leather is not without its drawbacks. It is not as breathable as real leather, which can make it less comfortable to wear in hot weather. Additionally, vegan leather is not biodegradable as real leather, which means it can take longer to break down in landfills.

The most sustainable option today is plant based leather. Luxury and ethics need not be mutually exclusive. Brands like Satu Hati, Stella McCartney and Samara offer exquisite vegan leather bags, purses, and accessories. These pieces combine fashion-forward design with a commitment to sustainability and compassion. Satu Hati specializes in the design and sale of plant-based vegan leather bags, made from agricultural crop waste, intentionally maximizing the use of biodegradable and recycled options and minimizing the use of PU and PVC, and all their bags are lined with 100% organic cotton. 

Whether you choose traditional leather or opt for its plant based counterparts, understanding the process and making informed choices empowers us to create a more conscious world.

Remember, every bag tells a story—let yours be one of compassion and conscious living.